Last night’s dinner party was a hit, or so you assume as you tackle the mess in the kitchen and sneak seven empty bottles of wine to the recycling. Which is fine, because even though Amatriciana sauce often is made with wine, our version skips it. We’ve also swapped out the traditional guanciale for pancetta (use whichever one you’ve got on hand). We know it’s sometimes blasphemous to substitute, but when it comes to making eggs this good for breakfast, trust us.
Heat the oil in a large, wide skillet with a lid over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, flipping, until the pancetta is crisp, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove to a plate lined with paper towels.
Add the onion and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and cook until lightly golden, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic and crushed red pepper, and stir to soften the garlic and bloom the pepper flakes, about 30 seconds. Pour the tomatoes in a large bowl and break them up with your hands. Pour into the pan. Stir in the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Bring the sauce to a simmer. Crack the eggs into individual bowls and then slip them into the sauce. Cover and braise until the whites just set and the yolks are still a little runny, 8 to 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, toast the bread.
Scoop one egg and some sauce on top of each slice of toast. Sprinkle the eggs with cheese. Garnish with a crispy pancetta slice.