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Artisan Tradition. |
Salume is one of those culinary words we all have used and heard many times over. For the most part, it is widely accepted as a ‘term’ to define Italian meats that have been produced through a salting and curing process. The origin of the word ‘Salumi’ traces its origin back to Sale, or ‘Salt’.
The generic term ‘Salumi’, is further defined and categorized by the different cuts of meats which are processed and cured by a specific method. For example, ‘whole cuts’ of pork which are cured would include finished products such as Prosciutto, Speck, Culatello, Coppa, Guanciale and Pancetta. One exception to this category would be Bresaola, which is created from specific cuts of beef, then seasoned and air dried.
There are many forms of Salami / Italian Cured Meats in the marketplace and it can get rather confusing when trying to understand them all. So, I thought it important to start by briefly describing a few of these ‘whole cut’ meats the Volpi family produces in hopes that you’ll gain a better understanding in this beloved part of Italian culture.
Prosciutto is defined as a cured ham made from the hind leg of a pig. The origins of Prosciutto are traced back to the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. As with Italian tradition, the Volpi family holds in high importance the heritage, upbringing and processing of the pig prior to its transformation into a Prosciutto. It is a labor of love, an unhurried salting and drying process that will last no less than 210 days! Each ham is carefully scrutinized, hand trimmed and watched over by the ‘Salumiere’. The result is a perfect rose colored flesh, evenly dried and sweet in flavor.
Coppa is another staple with its origins from Emilia, produced from the back of the neck and/or shoulder of the pig. This whole cut of meat begins by being salted, well-seasoned and dry cured for up to one month. At this time it will be encased for further air-drying for a minimum of 6 months to capture its full flavor profile.
Pancetta is the pork belly that is salt cured with the addition of black pepper and various aromatic spices such as cinnamon, clove and nutmeg. Pancetta will undergo a slow air drying process to develop depth of flavor. This is a staple in the Italian kitchen that can be sliced thin and eaten raw or slowly rendered creating a crispy texture like American bacon. The aromatic meat and fat make it a perfect foundation for the beginnings of sauces or stews.
Bresaola is one type of ‘Salami’ that finds its origins from beef. There are five acceptable cuts from which Bresaola can be made; the fillet or tenderloin is one of the most common and the one used by the Volpi family. The meat undergoes a dry salt curing process which incorporates addition of spices such as black pepper, nutmeg, clove, cinnamon and garlic. The slow air drying process allows the meat to develop a deep ruby red color, both sweet and aromatic in flavor. It is said to be best served sliced thinly with a light drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, fresh black pepper and hint of lemon.
I have touched on a handful of these ‘whole cut’ specialty Italian meats created by the Volpi family, each with their own character and place in your pantry. I look forward to my next blog which will focus on the world of Salami.
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July 29th, 2009 at 12:39 pm
As an Italian meats lover, it is now good to know some of the origins of my favorites like salami and prosciutto! It’s neat that Volpi puts so much care and time into making the prosciutto I love so much!
August 5th, 2009 at 11:54 am
Connie,
I really appreciate the feedback regarding my recent Volpi blog. I do feel very strongly about this topic and the importance of quality, passion along with the support of local farmers. I really do believe that you can tell the difference in your food when a Chef or manufacturer like Volpi invests time and care with the raw materials the benefits are substantial. It can be as simple as a ‘fresh’ picked tomato from your garden vs. store bought ‘hot-house’ tomato, it really is two different worlds…….
All the best, Grazie Mille!
Michael