I am excited to continue on the subject of handmade Italian Salami, even more so that the weekend is here and my first batch of father / son homemade Genova salami will soon be underway.  As I mentioned in my last post, each step in the process is crucial starting with ingredients, then on to production techniques and finally time and patience that will bring everything together.

I can not stress more the importance in the quality of your ingredients that will be used for making salami.  There are two approaches to finding quality pork, first is to utilize a local butcher where meats are fabricated daily, this is a person who provides confidence and someone that will understand and support your project.  Another source would be farm raised hogs that come from certified free range/sustainable environments.  At Volpi Foods such farms are used in sourcing their pork, Heritage Foods USA is a great place to contact. 

The curing salts, starter cultures and casings are not something one finds at the corner market.  One great source that allows for one-stop shopping is Butcher-Packer Supply Company.  In addition to finding all your necessary supplies and then some, I have always found their customer service among the best in addition to their dedication to the craft.

The remaining ingredients of salt, sugar and spices will be right in your pantry.  I recommend that you use fresh as possible to ensure highest quality in their flavor profiles.

I can’t begin to emphasize enough the importance of Sanitation.  Not only should we keep a focus to this subject in day to day routines when preparing food, but this is an ABSOLUTE MUST when making salami.  Make sure all of the work surfaces, knives and equipment have been cleaned with hot water and soap, in addition everything should be sanitized.  A rule of thumb I have used is 1Tbs bleach / 1 qt of water.

It is during the Curing / Incubation / Fermentation are stages where salts and lactic acid starter cultures do their work keeping any harmful bacteria from growing.  Sodium nitrate sometimes referred to as ‘pink salt’ will work to prevent bacteria growth, preserve a pink color in the salami and assist to keep rancidity from the fat.  This 24-48 hour process is recommended at 75°F – 85°F with a humidity level of 75% – 85%, each style of salami will define the parameters.

The area that will be the most challenging for all of us home ‘artisans’ involves Temperature and Humidity.  Suggestions for creating your own dry area could range from purchasing a manufactured box designed for this purpose or as simple as an unused refrigerator, with a large pan of salted water on the bottom to provide the necessary humidity.  Keys will be temperature between 55°F – 65°F, humidity 70% – 80%, keep exposure to light at a minimum and a little circulation is important.

Drying of your homemade Italian salami is required to lower the water content in the meat, usually a 25% – 35% moisture loss is required to provide proper texture and shelf stability.  The time frame for this to happen depends on style of salami, type of casing and the diameter of the casing, I have found that 30 – 45 days is a good standard to follow.  A topical mold will form on the outside of the casing, sometimes referred to as ‘Muffa”, this is said to impart complexity of flavor into the salami.

I hope this information provides some background and outline to the handmade Italian salami process.  I will follow up at the beginning of the week with a recipe I used for homemade Genova salami, and I’m sure a laugh or two as I embark on this adventure with my son.