Now that the final weekend of the XXI Olympics are upon us and soon all the excitement will be over, I thought no better time to have a party!  This is the perfect opportunity to take advantage of an ideal situation and create a lasting memory for friends and family.  My wife is working on the email invitations and decorations while also using her imagination to create our own ‘Olympic Games’ sure to bring plenty of laughs and quality moments.  My duties start with writing the menu, then a little shopping before hitting the kitchen to pull everything together.

I’m counting on guests spending little time sitting down, so traditional Italian ‘stuzzichini’ or ‘snacks’ is the first thing that comes to mind.  The heritage and Italian traditions that are found in the Italian culture lend themselves to a cuisine of preservation.  Items such as an antipasto platter full of peppers, artichokes, olives, Prosciutto, salami and cheeses come to mind.  I also think of a variety of salads, Panini sandwiches plus we can’t forget an Italian “HERO” piled high with Italian cured meats.  As for my guests, it is their duty to bring the libations.

OLYMPIC GAMES ‘ANTIPASTI’

Bruschetta Trio:
Salsa Verde with ‘House-Made’ Ricotta,
Pepperonata
“GLOP” – A blend of Parmesan and Asiago cheese with California Olive Oil
Italian Salami:
Volpi Prosciutto and ‘Un Mondo’ Salumi with pickled vegetable giardinara
Salads:
Roasted Winter Vegetables with Burrata and Pomegranate vinaigrette
Frisee and Goat Cheese Salad with Volpi Pancetta-Sherry vinaigrette
Oven Roasted Beets with shaved Grana Padano and Pine nut vinaigrette
Bresaola with Shaved Fennel and Celery Hearts
Panini:
Volpi Stromboli
Italian ‘Hero’
Pancetta, Lettuce and Oven Dried Tomato (‘PLT’)

Here’s one of the recipes I’ll be using, and can be found in ‘Authentic Volpi’ our Italian cookbook that was released in November 2009.

Volpi Italian ‘HERO’

Ingredients:
1 ea        Italian Ciabatta, fresh baked
8 slices        Prosciutto
8 slices        Capocolla
8 slices        Coppa
8 slices        Genova Salami
6 slices        Mortadella
8 slices        Milano Salami
8 slices        Sopressata
6 slices        Provolone
1 ½ oz        Pepperocini, sliced
4 oz         Roasted Bell Peppers
½ each        Red Onion, medium – sliced thin
1 ½ cup     Arugula
To Taste    Extra Virgin Olive Oil
To Taste    Red Wine Vinegar
Sea Salt
Black pepper, fresh ground
4 – 6 ea        Skewers

Method:
Split the Italian Ciabatta in half lengthwise leaving the back edge attached, open fully and flatten.  Drizzle the bread with olive oil, red wine vinegar then season with sea salt and black pepper.
Begin to layer the Prosciutto, Capocolla, Coppa, Genova salami, Mortadella, Milano salami, and Sopressata.  The meats should slightly overlap as you build the Italian sandwich; making sure then entire length of the baguette is covered.
Next the slices of Provolone cheese followed by the pepperocini, roasted bell peppers and red onion slices.
In a small mixing bowl, place the arugula.  Lightly dress with olive oil and red wine vinegar, sea salt and black pepper to taste and mix well.  Distribute evenly over the length of the baguette.

Fold the baguette/ Ciabatta to form the sandwich, place skewers even distance apart to hold together.  Cut into individual sandwiches.  Serve.

Grazie mille,
Michael

This past weekend the family ventured out to visit my wife’s nephew who happens to be a freshman attending University of Colorado, Boulder.  Remembering back to my college days, I always enjoyed visitors because it meant a time for some fun, laughs and more importantly a good meal outside of the dining hall.  I was excited about the trip because of all the great food related ‘things’ happening in Boulder, and this would present an opportunity to see if what I had been reading and writing about was happening within my local dining scene.  Chefs and restaurateurs have been on a mission with a focus to support local farmers, incorporate sustainability into their operations and insist on quality ingredients. In addition, a few have raised the bar even higher with a commitment to the environment by incorporating wind power, biodegradable paper products and composting all of the food waste.

Anxious to see how this ‘mission’ was being executed, we decided it was a must to have an Italian lunch, starting with some antipasto, at an Italian Trattoria whose food is inspired by the cuisine and culture of Northern Italy.  The menu along with daily specials and signage within the restaurant brought a smile to my face; focus was driven to support local ranchers, farmers and foragers, which relates back to Italian traditional foods.

After reading through the menu, there were too many great choices and so not to miss out, we decided ‘family-style’ it would be.  Our meal started with selections of antipasti which included a Fritto Misto consisting of shrimp, fennel and zucchini, then Salami E Pepe (hard salame with black pepper), ‘house-cured’ olives and mozzarella. Next course a salad with four perfect ingredients – endive, toasted hazelnuts, grana padano cheese and truffled citrus dressing.  We decided on Chitarra all’ Amatriciana with locally cured guanciale and the Gnocchi alla Bolognese with ‘house-made’ ricotta gnocchi for our pasta course.  Of course what kind of respectable Italian meal would this be without ordering a couple wood fired pizzas?  Our choices were: ‘Bresaola’ – described on the menu as house made ricotta and mozzarella, Bresaola, arugula, grana padano with balsamic vinegar.  ‘Salsicca’ – described as ‘house-made’ fennel sausage, fresh oregano, Fontina and chili flake – plus why not throw a local organic egg on top just because.

Today was a huge success. Our family-style Italian meal, filled with quality Italian meats, allowed us to experience the restaurants vision to the fullest extent.  Great quality ingredients, manipulated with simple execution filled our palates with joy.  And to the chef and staff, I say thank you for a great food memory….

Grazie mille,

Michael

In difficult times such as those we are dealing with today, a world of ‘excess’ is somewhat hard to handle or justify.  My family, just like many others, has our list of needs and wants.  There is no doubt that the list of ‘needs’ sits on top of the pile. We have slowed down just a bit and made decisions as to what really is important to us.

Being a chef, of course with all of this thought and conversation going on, I eventually find a way to relate it back to food.  Last week I discussed the quality and importance of the ingredients being used in food with the addition of being respectful of their origin.  There is no better place to stress the concept of “Less is more” than in this case.

In the restaurant kitchen as well as mine at home there is a rule of thumb, “Garbage in, garbage out.”  In short, this means if you start cooking with inferior ingredients, no matter how talented you are in the kitchen, greatness will never be achieved.  It is imperative to start with the best possible ingredients, handle them with care and simplicity in order to deliver the best possible finished products to your guests and family.

An example of this concept is found in traditional Italian food and throughout the Mediterranean table.  The craftsman’s work is defined through the complexity and artisanal characteristics delivered in such products as cheese, olive oils, and specialty Italian meat, just to name a few.  These items are not consumed in endless quantities during a meal, rather smaller and distinct portions.

In showing respect to the time honored traditions, first rule of thumb is to serve Italian cured meats at ambient temperatures. When creating an antipasto platter, the salami should be thinly sliced to showcase the texture of the meat. In doing so it allows for the concentrated levels of flavors, aromas and complexity to be fully exposed. Additional ways to pull out flavors and characteristics can be achieved in parings with fruits, olives, pickled vegetables or bread-sticks.

For that next family gathering or party, make your guests aware of the thought put into your presentation. Maybe begin the conversation on how “Less is more”……

Grazie mille,

Michael

In order to dig a little deeper into our conversation, I thought picking one product to focus on would be a good way to share my point.  I’m currently researching a few different ethnic backgrounds to develop new flavor profiles of Italian salami for the Volpi ‘Un Mondo’ brand, so salami it is.

Earlier in the year I spoke about the Volpi family’s Italian store and their new found focus that is taking root to promote small family farms, sustainable/traceable foods, ‘Certified Humane Raised & Handled’ practices and a commitment to genetic diversity.  The importance of understanding where the pork comes from and working directly with the family farms to promote natural and self-sustained ingredients is where the foundation must be set in order to produce high quality finished goods.  This same mentality carries over to all other raw materials used in the salami making process.

The next piece of the puzzle focuses on the ‘salumiere’ whose craft should be considered an art form.  They have dedicated their lives and countless hours in honing their craft in old world traditional methods to produce Italian gourmet salami.  It is their job to assemble all the ingredients and then with painstaking persistence keep a watchful eye over the salami as the transformation takes place.  Time and the fermentation process are the hidden keys in creating an ‘artisanal’, hand-crafted product.  Here is where the respect towards food and its creator really shines. Because of this focus, dedication and respect towards the food we get to experience a finished product in all its glory and perfection.

I certainly understand the reality of today’s society and the choices that we need to make in feeding our families.  There comes a point where in our minds we convince ourselves that we can’t sustain ourselves holding true to this lifestyle.  I know it can’t be changed overnight, however if we take this approach and focus on the importance and respect food really deserves, slowly change will happen and we can make a difference slowly but surely.

Maybe this is the year to start that family garden you’ve always talked about; it’s a step in the right direction……

Grazie Mille,

Michael

At one point or another in our lives we have learned the importance of lending a helping hand, no matter how small the gesture the act of selfless giving can make all the difference in the world.  As I have grown in the culinary world, I have been taught and discovered my abilities as a chef lend themselves very well for donating ‘private dinners’ to organizations that provide community support.

This past Tuesday night lending a helping hand was just one of the subjects of conversation during a dinner where I was proud to be the guest chef.  The dinner came about because of a silent auction event that took place a few months prior to benefit a Denver organization, ‘Washington Park Cares’.  “Neighbors Helping Neighbors” is their motto.  Washington Parks Cares is a nonprofit organization founded by residents of this community that focuses its mission to enhance the lives of people 55 and older.

To coincide with the theme of giving back to the community, I thought no better way to start out the evening with a selection of Volpi ‘Un Mondo’ Italian meat.  The Volpi Company donates a percentage of proceeds to The MOOG Center for Deaf Children.  The MOOG Center is a nonprofit school that provides educational services to children with hearing loss from birth to elementary years and their families.  Their goal is to make it possible for children with hearing loss to talk and experience success in their lives both in school and in the world at large.

The menu for the evening’s event:
ANTIPASTO
Selection of Volpi ‘Un Mondo” Salami and Pickled Vegetable ‘Giardinera”
Italian olives Oven Roasted with Rosemary, Garlic and Citrus
Toasted-spiced Mixed Nuts
“GLOP” with Fresh-Baked Crostini

ZUPPA
Minestrone Soup with Crispy Volpi Pancetta and Rotola Crostini

(This minestrone soup recipe is found in Authentic Volpi, our Italian cookbook.)

INSALATA
Mixed Greens w/ Candied Pecans, Pt. Reyes Blue Cheese and Pomegranate Vinaigrette

SECONDI
Pan Seared Coho Salmon with Lemon Caper Dill Sauce
Broccoli and Fingerling Potato Puree

DOLCI
Olive Oil Cake with Fresh Fruit Compote and Mascarpone Cream

The evening was a huge success, already early bidding has starting for the next silent auction dinner.  I can’t wait…..

Grazie Mille,

Michael

To keep my action plan moving forward, I figure the best place to start, and certainly more exciting, is the kitchen!   I head directly there knowing I can always find a smile and a few fond memories by digging through the freezer and pantry to see what treasures might be found.

In the freezer I find various stocks, 2 ½ gallons of fresh Pomegranate juice, a couple Prosciutto bones, Pancetta, whole duck, Etouffee roux and fruit popsicles that were a big hit this past summer.  In the pantry the first thing that jumps out at me is an entire shelf full of various tomatoes we canned from this summer’s garden – whole, diced, oven dried and crushed.

The next thought that hits me is a great food memory from 30 or so years ago; my mom’s home-made cannelloni recipe with garden tomato sauce.  Mom taught me how to make fresh pasta dough for the first time and with the addition of a few simple ingredients, we had a great meal.  In addition, we shared stories from that summer’s garden adventure and the late hours canning the harvest.  So with that in mind, I was inspired to create an updated version of home-made cannelloni and share this spinach pasta recipe with everyone.

CRISPY VOLPI PANCETTA SPINACH and RICOTTA CANNELLONI with TOMATO SAUCE

Cannelloni Pasta Dough Recipe

1 T               Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 each        Extra Large Eggs
1/8 t           Sea Salt (fine)
1 c               AP Flour
½ c             Semolina Flour

In the bowl of your stand mixer place the eggs, olive oil and sea salt.  Using the paddle attachment, mix on low speed until well blended.  Combine flour and semolina in small bowl, blend well.  On low speed of the mixer, add flour to the wet ingredients just to incorporate.

Remove the dough from the mixer bowl and shape into a ball.  On a lightly floured surface, begin to knead pasta dough until a smooth texture is achieved.  Flatten pasta dough to 2 inch thickness and wrap with plastic wrap – allow resting for minimum 30 minutes.  Once pasta dough has rested, time to make sheets for cannelloni.

A rolling pin can be used; however one of the BEST kitchen tools to have is a traditional hand crank pasta machine.  Cut the pasta dough into 4 equal pieces, beginning at the widest setting begin to roll out the pasta dough until the desired thickness is achieved.  Approximate size of pasta sheet is 3 ½ inches x 22 inches.  NOTE: Roll all pasta out before assembling with cannelloni filling; keep covered with towel or plastic wrap to avoid pasta getting too dry.

Cannelloni Ingredients:

1 lb                Spinach, leaves only – fresh (blanched, finely chopped)
1 ½ lb          Ricotta cheese
Chef Note* – Visit Volpi website ‘Recipes’ for “Home-made Ricotta”
1 ea               Egg, large and 1 additional egg for egg-wash
2 T                Heavy Cream
¼ t               Nutmeg, fresh ground
¼ t               Lemon zest, fresh zest
1/3 c            Parmesan cheese, fresh grated, additional for garnish
Sea Salt, Black Pepper (fresh ground)

1 bunch       Basil, fresh chiffonade cut

12 oz             Volpi Pancetta, ½ x ½ cut Lardons
1 T                  Olive Oil

4 c                   Tomato Sauce

Method:

Bring large pot of water to boil, season well with sea salt and blanch spinach leaves, 30 seconds.  Shock in ice cold water, drain well and squeeze to remove excess water.  Chop very fine.  (NOTE* Frozen spinach is quick acceptable substitute)

In large mixing bowl place Ricotta cheese, add egg, heavy cream, nutmeg, and lemon zest.  Mix well to incorporate.  Fold in spinach and Parmesan cheese.  Adjust seasoning with sea salt and black pepper to taste.  Set aside till required for cannelloni assembly.

Chef Tip:  Fill a pastry bag with Spinach & Ricotta filling; this makes the cannelloni making process quick, easy and with little mess.

Volpi Pancetta lardons:

Place 1 T olive oil in sauté pan over medium low heat, add Volpi Pancetta and render fat until Pancetta becomes crispy and golden brown on both sides.  Remove from pan with slotted spoon to paper lined plate to drain and hold.

Assembly:

Place one of the rolled pasta sheets on flat surface on top of a piece of plastic wrap in front of you. Using the pastry bag method, squeeze a ¾ inch bead of filling at bottom edge of pasta sheet.  At the top edge, place a thin coating of egg wash to assist sealing cannelloni.  Grab the plastic wrap, lift up and roll the pasta sheet over to create a cylinder shape. Once the cannelloni shape is formed, cut individual cannelloni approximately 5 ½ inches in length.  Move to parchment lined sheet pan and hold refrigerated till cooking.

Cooking:

Place a layer of tomato sauce on the bottom of a baking dish, approximately ¼ inch thick.  Lay the finished cannelloni atop the tomato sauce in even row.  Cover baking dish with plastic wrap and then aluminum foil.  Place in 350°F oven for 10-15 minutes or until hot.

Place remaining marinara sauce in pot and heat to simmer and hold until plating.

Remove from oven, place cannelloni on plate or serving platter.  Ladle marinara sauce over top, garnish with fresh basil, Parmesan cheese and Volpi Pancetta lardons.

Serves 4-6 persons

Buon Appetito!

Michael

Now that all of the ‘year end’ festivities, family traditions and celebrations have passed I’m looking forward to getting back into a more normal day to day routine and most certainly squeeze in a few additional hours behind the stove.

One very important fundamental concept I learned as a young Italian cook was that it is imperative to understand the origin of classic or historical recipes and foods.  In doing so as a cook, you then gain the permission from a culinary point of view to make personal changes and adapt the recipe to your own style of cooking. The result is an excellent new family dinner recipe.

I am very excited to pass along a ‘new’ recipe recently added to the collection and certainly one that will get plenty of use throughout the year.  My test cooking/experiments with Guanciale (cured pork jowels) yielded fantastic results and now I am proud to say have my version of “Bucatini all’Amatriciana”.

Ingredients

12 oz              Guanciale, ¼” thick sliced, then diced

• Chef Note – Pancetta italian meat is perfect substitute

1 ½ T            Olive Oil
1 ea                Sweet Onion, ½ “thickness -julienne cut (approx 3 cups)
4 ea               Garlic cloves, medium (sliced thin)
1 ½  t           Red Chili Flake
28 oz           Whole tomatoes (crushed by hand)
5 T                Italian Flat Leaf Parsley (leaves only), rough chop
Sea Salt and Black Pepper (fresh ground)
1 lb               Bucatini

• Chef Note – Your favorite pasta is acceptable substitute if desired

Pecorino Romano, grated

Method

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil, season well with sea salt.  Cook pasta following manufacturer’s directions or until ‘Al Dente’, drain well and hold.

Place a large sauté pan over medium-low heat, add Guanciale and cook until most of the fat has been rendered and it begins to caramelize.  Remove from pan with slotted spoon and place on plate lined with paper towels to drain.  Approximately 7 -8 minutes cooking time.

Turn heat to medium-high and add your onions, stir occasionally and cook until translucent.  Add garlic, red chili flake and cook for additional 2-3 minutes, will become golden brown in color.

Add tomatoes and reserved Guanciale, mix well.  Bring to a boil then reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes.  Check and adjust seasoning as necessary with sea salt and black pepper.  Add pasta and Italian parsley to tomato sauce, toss to coat well.

Divide pasta between plates, liberally apply fresh grate of Pecorino Romano over top and serve.

Serves: 4 – 6 persons

For me, the paper pad in hand does not read as a list of ‘naughty or nice’ more important it covers my responsibilities for the Holiday weekend festivities.  I look forward to carrying on and sharing with family and friends food tradition of the past and creating new dishes inspired by the  food influence I experienced this past year.  There is comfort knowing that most of the items on this long list of foods have been crossed off, things such as bread, artisan cheeses, Panettone, mixed case of wine, smoked and cured meats including Speck, Prosciutto, Salami and new to this year’s menu, Guanciale (cured meat from hog’s cheek).

I am excited about this afternoon and the opportunity to push myself away from the desk for a few days and welcome a smile to my face as I approach the kitchen with open arms knowing I’ll be behind the stove for the reminder of the day.  I am adding a new recipe to the menu this year utilizing the Guanciale, ‘Bucatini all’Amatriciana’.  This dish is taken from the very classic and traditional Italian pasta recipes. The excellent dish is from the town of Amatrice, which is located in central Italy.

Bucatini all’Amatriciana is a simple zesty tomato sauce dish classically made with Guanciale, however it is common to substitute a favorite Pancetta and have the same wonderful results.  This is a new recipe I’m working on. Once it is perfected this weekend, I’ll look forward to posting and sharing it with everyone.

I find that time in the kitchen is always good for the heart and soul.  There is something magical about food – their textures, colors, flavors along with the aromas that bring a sense of comfort.  I wish everyone a very happy and joyous Holiday season.  Merry Christmas!!  Buon Natale!!

Cheers to family and friends…..

Michael

For a cook it is a wonderful time to be in the kitchen. As with a painter’s pallet covered by an array of colors, so too is the chef’s table filled with a bounty of ingredients and Italian meat products such as Beaujolais Nouveau, Truffles, Prosciutto, Salami, ‘Just-Pressed Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Heirloom Squash and Beans’, just to mention a few.  Having these artisan crafted and grown items in hand, we take our homemade recipe and  draw from experiences and our heritage to deliver comfort and smiles to all those who dine at our table.  It is moments like this that fill our hearts and souls with joy in hopes that we provide for a memory which gets passed along over a lifetime.

Over the years my family has gradually gathered an array of props, serving platters, plates and multiple boxes of other goodies that have allowed us to embrace the Holiday season with excitement and open arms.  In our home, with the exceptional assistance of my mother in-law, entertaining has transformed into an art form.  The final weeks of the calendar year bring a time where the entire family joins forces to decorate and address invitations while I sit down to draft a menu in preparation for guests to join in our holiday festivities.

Each year we look forward to sharing our family traditions with friends and in turn welcome and encourage each to share and discuss their own customs.  It never fails that nearly the majority of the conversations focus around food customs and food influences experienced throughout our lives.  As I reflect back over past years, I see how my culinary background has taken root and been inspired with Italian recipes, techniques and Italian traditions.

There is no doubt life has us all busy running from sunrise to sunset trying to squeeze just a little more out of each day.  I would like to pass along a thought / request for each of my readers, no matter which Holiday your family chooses to celebrate. Make sure to take timeout and enjoy the time you have with family and friends.  Embrace your family’s heritage, look to start new traditions, maybe something as simple as sharing dinner party recipes.

I’ll start, visit the Volpi website “Recipes section” and you’ll find a fantastic recipe that was submitted by a long time fan and winner of the Authentic Volpi recipe contest – SAVORY CASSOULET with VOLPI PANCETTA.   Thank you – Jamie!

Happy Holidays!!

Grazie Mille
Michael

Piles of vegetables have covered the butcher block island in the kitchen needing to be cleaned, diced and sliced in every way, shape and form. In addition, with all of the ingredients sandwiched into the pantry you would have thought I was operating a corner grocery from my home.  I can easily say that 95% of the Italian specialty meats available in local markets and deli’s have found their way into the final dishes during the process.

I would first and foremost like to say ‘Thank You’ to everyone that submitted recipes for the Authentic Volpi cooking contest; it is a joy as a cook to see all the diversity in cooking techniques, regional food influence and utilization of product.  The recipes that were submitted covered a wide spectrum from simple to complex, fresh and frozen ingredients, professional and homemade recipe applications even seasonality played a role.  The recipes turned out great and between testing, tasting and enjoyment of the final dishes, the one thing I hadn’t counted on was the pre-Holiday expanding waist line!

To keep the suspense no longer, the top 5 winning recipes are:

1.    Savory Cassoulet with Volpi Pancetta
2.    Volpi Prosciutto and cheese Soufflés
3.    Stuffed Pork Fillet with Truffles and Volpi Trio Set
4.    Volpi Milano Panzanella
5.    Peppered Goat Cheese Crostini with Roasted Red Grapes and Crispy Volpi Prosciutto

GRAND PRIZE WINNING RECIPE:

SAVORY CASSOULET with VOLPI PANCETTA

We’ll be featuring each of these recipes on the Volpi website for everyone to enjoy and acknowledge our winners.  Thank you to everyone that participated, this was surely a big success for us.

Grazie Mille,

Chef Michael