Emails have been showing up on a steady basis from Volpi customers in response to the ‘Authentic Volpi’ recipe contest.  In addition to your recipes utilizing Volpi products, you’ve been sharing personal stories of family history and traditions.  This has been a wonderful surprise and certainly welcome as it provides a further justification as to the importance of family dynamics in our lives.

As a chef I get excited reading through your recipes, each provides a unique vision and insight to flavor profiles and regional diversity.  The use and creativity with Italian specialty meats seems endless and as each new email arrives in my ‘in-box’ you prove the point.

Available at bookstores NOW!

Thank you for sharing, keep the recipes coming!

Grazie mille,
Chef Michael

To share in the excitement, the Volpi family thought it would be wonderful to hear from their ‘extended family’ and learn how their products have been utilized in recipes.  The idea of a ‘Recipe Contest’ quickly came to mind.  So here’s a chance to share with everyone your favorite family recipe that showcases a Volpi product as the ‘hero’ ingredient and in doing so have an opportunity to win a Volpi prize package.

Released November 2009

The idea is for us to receive one recipe submission per person from our faithful followers and learn more about the exciting ways you’re working Volpi products into your family recipes.  The Volpi Staff and Chef Michael will review all entries, surely do a little test cooking and then have the difficult task of choosing 5 winners.  Each winner will receive a signed copy of ‘Authentic Volpi’. In addition, the Grand Prize winner will have their recipe posted on the Volpi website and receive a prize package of Volpi products (Value $100)! Please see the contest rules below for more information on the prize package and details of the contest.

To enter, submit your recipe via email – MichaelL@volpifoods.com

To make sure there are no mistakes with your recipe submission and so we can get back in touch with you, please include the following for each recipe:

1. Name of recipe
2. Ingredient list and amounts of each item
3. Cooking method
4. Serves how many?
5. Full Name, Physical Address and Email Address (If you are chosen as the winner, we will only share your first name, last initial and state of residence with your recipe on VolpiFoods.com.)

There is just over one month to pass along your recipes to us as the contest will end on November 30, 2009.  During this time, we’ll be reading and testing your recipes as received, excited to see the diversity in everyone’s cooking.  Our final decision will be made by December 04, 2009; winners will be contacted via email.

This Italian cookbook is a celebration of ‘family’ from one generation to the next, a celebration the Volpi company is excited to share with their customers.  Surely there will be plenty of great ideas and good food ahead of us. Thank you for sharing part of your family with ours.

Grazie mille,

Chef Michael

The official contest rules:

All entries must be submitted by 11:59 p.m. on November 30, 2009. Participants must be 18 years of age or older and residents of the United States of America.  Offer valid only within the United States of America. There is a limit of one entry per person.  Volpi Foods and any agents acting on their behalf are not responsible for any lost, undelivered, misdirected or incomplete entries. Entries will be submitted via email, and all participants must provide their full names, valid email and mailing addresses. All entries will be evaluated and the winners chosen by the Volpi staff. Decisions of the judges are final. There will be five (5) winners. Each winner will receive one (1) Authentic Volpi cookbook. In addition, the first place winner will receive a Volpi prize package valued at $100 that contains: three (3) Un Mondo products, three (3) Wine Salami products, three (3) Rotola products, three (3) Pre-Sliced products, three (3) Volpini products, one (1) Volpi apron, one (1) Authentic Volpi cookbook and one (1) Volpi wooden crate. The first place winner’s recipe will be featured on the Volpi website along with his/her first name, last initial and state of residence. Winners will be notified via email on or around December 4, 2009. Deadline to claim prize via email reply is December 20, 2009. Prizes can be changed at the discretion of Volpi Foods. Taxes are the sole responsibility of the winner. No cash in exchange of prizes. No purchase necessary to enter or win.

As soon as I crossed into Napa County a flood of memories came back as I passed vineyards full of farm workers picking grapes while navigating the county roads dotted with harvest trucks carrying this years grape harvest.  The air is heavy with the smell of new fermentation, the morning air is crisp and the vineyard vines reflect gold, amber, orange and red colors from this morning’s sun rise and beginning of a new day.

A call this morning from Lorenza Pasetti brought some very exciting news; our seven month long project has reached ‘final’ approval and has been released this November.  And just exactly what have we been up to?  I am very excited to finally be able to let the word out on the first book written for the Volpi family.  It is a special Italian cookbook – Authentic Volpi!

Lorenza had the vision for an almanac style book that would outline some of the stories, traditions and recipes of her family along with the history of the specialty Italian meat business they have created and passed along from one generation to the next.  The Volpi family is America’s oldest “family owned” manufacturer of artisan hand-crafted Italian  meats.  It has been three generations in the making that have honed their skills and perfected their craft as ‘salumieri’s.  You will be able to follow the steps of John Volpi, an immigrant from Milan that placed his roots in St. Louis, soon to follow his nephew Armando Pasetti that would stand by his side in creating this American dream.

The book follows along with the seasons of the year, focusing on the bounty of fruits and vegetables along with cooking methods which incorporate many of the Volpi family’s dry-cured Italian meat products.  The recipes are simple in form and function, but this is more than a typical cookbook.  It is a collection of recipes that honors the traditions and history of the Volpi family.

It has been a wonderful journey these past few months getting to know and work side by side with everyone at the John Volpi Company.  The family and passion for their craft is intoxicating and certainly a place and time in my life I will hold very special.

Potatoes are autumn staples that seem to always bring a sense of comfort to the table and ones soul.  You’ll find purple Peruvian, Yukon Gold, Fingerlings, Sweet Potatoes and Yams filling the bins at the local market.  Of course the old standby Russet will always have its place in our pantry. Potatoes can be prepared many different ways, and they are especially delicious with Italian meats such as pancetta.  Recently I have taken on a new fondness for sweet potatoes.  One reason being the important nutritional attributes, they are high in protein, fiber and vitamin C.  A favorite way to prepare these wonderful tubers would be ‘Sweet Potato Mashers’. Check out my recipe for Pork Loin Saltimbocca with Sweet Potato Mashers. This recipe is also featured in Volpi’s new cookbook, which will be released on November 1, 2009.

When it comes to fruits, nothing tells us it is autumn more than the explosion of apple varieties available at local markets.  Names such as Honeycrisp, Winesap, Pink Lady and McIntosh to name just a few shout out to us each with their own color, flavor and culinary purpose.  Other autumn fruits that should find their way into our recipes would be figs, persimmons, cranberries, table grapes, pears, pomegranates, almonds and pistachios. Many of these fruits pair nicely with Italian meats such as prosciutto. A favorite weekend snack that surely captures the simplicity and perfection of autumn flavors and ingredients would be ‘Bruschetta with Volpi Prosciutto, Figs and Pecorino Cheese.’

Hearty greens which are tolerable to the cooler temperatures are rich in flavor and nutrients.  These greens are sturdy which allows them to stand up to the robust flavor profiles found in our autumn foods and cooking methods.  Items we should be focusing our attention on would include: artichokes, kale, mustard greens, Brussels sprouts, chard, broccoli rabe and collards.  A great side dish for the dinner table, ‘Oven Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Caramelized Volpini Prosciutto Bits.’

Winter squashes provide a cornucopia of colors, shapes, textures and flavors.  Each has its own character as well as great diversity in the kitchen.  Winter squashes do very well in a variety of cooking methods such as roasted, braised, sautéed or simply pureed.  A quick autumn dish because of the easy preparation and simplicity in cooking, ‘Oven Roasted Acorn Squash with Crispy Volpi Pancetta’.

The style of cooking that begins with the onset of autumn really shines a light on “Root Vegetables”.  Here we find parsnips, carrots, celeriac, beets, turnips and rutabagas to compliment our meals.  Oven roasting root vegetables will allow for caramelization of the natural sugars which provide sweetness along with depth in flavor.  Well worth the time and effort – Oven Roasted Beet Salad w/ Citrus Dressing.

I am excited about the change of seasons and look forward to next talking about cooking methods used in the kitchen during these crisp autumn days and nights.

Calabrian Meatballs:

½ lb         Pork, ground

½ lb         Veal, ground

1 lb           Beef, ground (80/20 blend)

½ lb        Volpi Calabrese Salami, small dice

1T             Garlic, fresh, minced

2 t             Sea Salt

½ t           Black Pepper, fresh ground

1 ea          Egg, large – lightly beaten

2/3 c       Parmesan Cheese, grated

2 T           Italian Parsley

½ c          Milk

½ c          Bread Crumbs

3 T           Onion, fresh – minced

2oz          Olive Oil for sautéing meatballs

Quick Marinara Sauce:

1 ea        Onion, small dice

3 ea        Garlic, fresh – minced

2 T        Tomato paste

3 (28 oz)    Whole plum tomatoes with juice, hand crushed

½ c        Red wine

1 ea        Bay leaf, small

2 T        Italian Parsley, fine chopped

½ c        Basil, chopped – loose packed

2 oz        Extra Virgin Olive Oil

To taste    Sea Salt

To taste    Black pepper

To Serve:

1 ½ pounds     Spaghetti

1 gal        Water

To taste    Sea Salt

To Taste    Parmesan Cheese, fresh grated

Directions:

Italian meatball recipe:

Place all ground meats in a large mixing bowl.  To this add – the remaining ingredients.  MIX WELL.  Check seasoning by forming a small patty and cook in small sauté pan.  Once seasoning is proper, begin to form meatballs.

Using 2 -3 tablespoons of meatball mixture, form into uniform shaped meatballs.  This mixture will form approximately 24 ea ‘golf-ball’ sized meatballs.

Heat 2 oz of olive oil in large sauce pot over medium high heat.  Once oil is hot, add meatballs in batches to cook.  Allow each part of the meatball to turn golden brown before turning, cook all sides.  After all sides are golden brown move to holding tray and reserve until Marinara sauce is made.

To make the Marinara sauce:

Using the same sauce pot to brown meatballs, add 2 oz olive oil and place over medium- high heat.  Once oil is hot add onion and cook until translucent.  Add garlic and cook for 2 minutes.  Stir in tomato paste and cook to caramelize, approx 3 minutes.  Add red wine to deglaze, be sure to scrape ‘fond’ from bottom of sauce pot.  Reduce the wine by 50%.

Add the plum tomatoes (hand crushed), mix well and bring to a simmer.  Season Marinara sauce with sea salt and black pepper to taste.  Place the meatballs in pot and simmer sauce for 30 minutes.  Finish sauce with addition on Italian parsley and basil.

To serve:

Cook spaghetti per directions, keeping in mind the finished spaghetti should be al dente.  Drain spaghetti well, place in large mixing bowl and coat with Marinara sauce.  Place spaghetti on plate, ladle 6 oz of Marinara sauce over top add 3 each meatballs to plate, garnish with fresh grate of Parmesan cheese.  Serve.

I hope you enjoy this spaghetti recipe as much as we did!

Grazie mille,

Chef Michael

This is a dish all of us have had countless times throughout our lives and certainly can be considered a family staple when it comes to dinner time.  I know from experience growing up Sunday was always the best day for this meal, in addition Spaghetti and Meatballs has always been an ideal candidate for school hot lunches and benefit dinners to raise charitable funds. As I take the time to ponder thought about this dish I ask myself, what is the origin of this dish and who invented it?

It all starts with the pasta or spaghetti.  It is safe to say pasta in its many forms has been utilized for thousands of years; it is the early documentation of this ingredient and its origin that still raises debates.  For the most part it is generally agreed that ‘spaghetti’ dates back to early 19th century, and it is Naples, Italy that holds the honor of being the originator of the dish spaghetti and meat sauce.

In America, it was during the early 1920s era that proved the first wave of pasta growth.  The expansion of pasta manufacturing happened because imports were stopped due to World War I. Product was cheap at a time when food prices were rising and food manufacturers brought canned macaroni and tomato sauce to local stores.  This is also the time when Italian family traditions saw a need and opened  ‘spaghetti houses’  which quickly became very popular with the working class.  The onset of the 1930s Depression further fueled the growth of this family staple because of living/working conditions and it was inexpensive.

Each culture has some form of meat patties or meatball in their cuisine. As for the meatballs, their origins can be traced back to ancient Roman times.  It was more so out of necessity that this food was created.  It happened because meat was of poor quality and limited availability.  To compensate, the early Roman recipe added bread soaked in wine, herbs, spices to improve flavor and create a greater yield.  The simplest explanation of how these two joined forces would be the over-whelming success of spaghetti and tomato sauce within our culture and the irresistible hunger Americans have for meat.

Now all of this talk has sparked an appetite, besides the fact my son is being relentless in his pursuit to have a plate of Spaghetti and Meatballs.  I’m making this for dinner tonight and will have a great simple spaghetti recipe with a twist for everyone tomorrow……

Grazie Mille,
Chef Michael

All of the organizing happened earlier in the week making sure I had all the proper raw materials and charcuterie supplies to get the job done making our Italian traditional deli meat.  One important trip was over to our friend “Jack”, the local butcher in town.  It had been a few days since we last visited and I wanted to make sure the right pork shoulder, pork back fat and fresh natural casings would be available for our project.  Jack always has come through with great products and this time would be no different, a local Colorado farm would be delivering fresh hogs at the end of the week – Perfect!

I did some digging through old notes and files from my early culinary days and came across a recipe from an instructor I had during my days at the Culinary Institute of America, so today I’m taking claim with a slight adjustment to the seasonings.   As for my recipe, today is day one for the new tradition, unlike the Volpi family’s ‘old-world’ recipes that have been handed down and perfected from generation to generation creating fantastic authentic Italian meats that today can claim over a century of history.  Besides finding a Genova salami recipe a handful of notables were in the pile, Sopressata, Chorizo, Red Wine Salami and Bresaola.

The recipe for this project:

18 pounds        Pork Shoulder (has approx 20% fat ratio)

2 Pounds          Pork Back Fat

8 oz                  Sea Salt

2.5 oz               Sugar

3 oz                  Red Wine

3 oz                  Garlic, powder

.5 oz                 Fennel Seed, ground

1 oz                  Black Pepper

.25 oz               White Pepper

.05 oz               Cure Salt

Required          Starter Culture (see manufacturer recommendations)

Before I can get busy cutting, grinding and seasoning anything it is imperative to clean and sanitize the equipment and all working surfaces.  So now that this is out of the way, time to get cutting and grinding our pork.  I prefer to start by dicing the pork shoulder and pork back fat into 1 ½ -2 inch cubes, placing them in the freezer to ensure a very cold temperature is maintained – about 33°F-36°F.  By keeping the meat cold during grinding processing it will assist in creating a nice emulsion providing for proper texture and consistency in the final product.  I will be using a 1/8” plate in order to have a fine grind for this batch of Genova salami.

Once all of the grinding is completed, then all the other ingredients with exception of the ‘starter culture’ will be added to the ground pork.  Make sure to mix very well to incorporate and evenly distribute ingredients, maybe 3 -4 minutes.  Next is the starter culture, add to the ground pork mixture and mix well, additional 2 -3 minutes.

Now for the fun part, father and son need to get all of this pork mixture into the salami stuffer in order to fill the natural casings.  I chose a smaller hog casing for this project for a few reasons, first it will keep our fermentation, maturation and drying time shorter allowing us to reap the rewards of our work sooner.  A few laughs and smiles for us as my son cranks the press too fast and we ‘squirt’ the pork through weak part in the casing all over the butcher block.

Once all the pork has been filled into casings, I plan to the following guidelines for fermentation: 75°F-80°F with humidity at 75%-85% for the first 24 to 48 hours.  The target pH we are looking for is 4.7 – 4.9.  The maturation process will need temperatures between 55°F-60°F with humidity at 70%-80%.  It is during this stage where the salami will lose water in area of 35%-40%.

My wife is shaking her head and my son laughing as we stare at the 20 or so pounds of fresh ‘homemade’ Genova salami hanging in the basement wine cellar.  Let the adventure begin and in 30 or so days and all going well our first taste…….

All the best,

Chef Michael

I can not stress more the importance in the quality of your ingredients that will be used for making salami.  There are two approaches to finding quality pork, first is to utilize a local butcher where meats are fabricated daily, this is a person who provides confidence and someone that will understand and support your project.  Another source would be farm raised hogs that come from certified free range/sustainable environments.  At Volpi Foods such farms are used in sourcing their pork, Heritage Foods USA is a great place to contact. 

The curing salts, starter cultures and casings are not something one finds at the corner market.  One great source that allows for one-stop shopping is Butcher-Packer Supply Company.  In addition to finding all your necessary supplies and then some, I have always found their customer service among the best in addition to their dedication to the craft.

The remaining ingredients of salt, sugar and spices will be right in your pantry.  I recommend that you use fresh as possible to ensure highest quality in their flavor profiles.

I can’t begin to emphasize enough the importance of Sanitation.  Not only should we keep a focus to this subject in day to day routines when preparing food, but this is an ABSOLUTE MUST when making salami.  Make sure all of the work surfaces, knives and equipment have been cleaned with hot water and soap, in addition everything should be sanitized.  A rule of thumb I have used is 1Tbs bleach / 1 qt of water.

It is during the Curing / Incubation / Fermentation are stages where salts and lactic acid starter cultures do their work keeping any harmful bacteria from growing.  Sodium nitrate sometimes referred to as ‘pink salt’ will work to prevent bacteria growth, preserve a pink color in the salami and assist to keep rancidity from the fat.  This 24-48 hour process is recommended at 75°F – 85°F with a humidity level of 75% – 85%, each style of salami will define the parameters.

The area that will be the most challenging for all of us home ‘artisans’ involves Temperature and Humidity.  Suggestions for creating your own dry area could range from purchasing a manufactured box designed for this purpose or as simple as an unused refrigerator, with a large pan of salted water on the bottom to provide the necessary humidity.  Keys will be temperature between 55°F – 65°F, humidity 70% – 80%, keep exposure to light at a minimum and a little circulation is important.

Drying of your homemade Italian salami is required to lower the water content in the meat, usually a 25% – 35% moisture loss is required to provide proper texture and shelf stability.  The time frame for this to happen depends on style of salami, type of casing and the diameter of the casing, I have found that 30 – 45 days is a good standard to follow.  A topical mold will form on the outside of the casing, sometimes referred to as ‘Muffa”, this is said to impart complexity of flavor into the salami.

I hope this information provides some background and outline to the handmade Italian salami process.  I will follow up at the beginning of the week with a recipe I used for homemade Genova salami, and I’m sure a laugh or two as I embark on this adventure with my son.

One of my childhood’s fondest memories comes from the kitchen and summers spent at my grandfather’s home in Chicago.  As with all of us there are a few of those ‘must-haves’ when it comes to food, and my German and Polish heritage basically required some form charcuterie on the table for every meal.  It was during these visits that the family would spend countless hours in the kitchen sharing stories, playing cards, cooking, eating and where I was first exposed to the art of making homemade sausage and salami.  Little did I know at that time the impact this would make on my life and career.

It was my first trip to St. Louis for a meeting with the Volpi family to discuss an ‘Artisan Salami’ program that brought back a flood of great memories and a new found interest to learn everything I could about this craft.  I could see the passion Lorenza Pasetti held for the business, and when I had the pleasure of meeting her father Armando immediately knew where it all started.  The Volpi family has transformed handmade Italian salami and Italian sausage recipes into an iconic and highly regarded brand.

For those of us at home who are somewhat adventurous, the art of making handmade Italian salami is not an overly difficult task and certainly can be a rewarding experience.  Once you have a basic understanding of the process and critical steps in production, you can easily begin creating your own family recipes and traditions.  The golden rule to follow in cooking is, “you must begin with great ingredients”. From there, proper seasonings along with simple well managed techniques and a little patience are certain to deliver positive results.  I believe it is important to first lay the ground work in an outline for making handmade Italian salami, then I will discuss each step in further detail:

1.    Great Ingredients
a.    Pork / Pork Fat
b.    Salt
c.    Curing Salts
d.    Starter Cultures
e.    Spices / Sugar
f.    Casings
2.    Sanitation
3.    Humidity and Temperature
4.    Curing
5.    Incubation
6.    Drying

I am taking this opportunity while outlining the steps in salami making to begin the journey myself with my son.  We are very excited to get going on our ‘Homemade’ Genova salami project.  My next post will provide a breakdown for each of the steps in our homemade salami outline.

Volpi Foods’ philosophies along with family traditions and family values have a similar vision of the Heritage Farm and Slow Food USA.  A new found focus is taking root to promote small family farms, sustainable / traceable foods, ‘Certified Humane Raised & Handled’ practices and a commitment to genetic diversity.

In an effort to uphold these ideals, Volpi Foods has been working for the past 4 years with Heritage Farm, a family farm cooperative that places its focus on the quality, care and diversity of the pigs being raised.  The farms from which Volpi purchases a steadily increasing amount of pork are located in Missouri, Iowa, Illinois and Kansas.  A strong focus is taken to ensure the animals are antibiotic free and consumers are educated as to where their food comes from and how it was raised.

The strict requirements established by the family farm cooperatives requires for the farms to be occupied by family members.  In addition, these farms are working under ‘Certified Humane Raised & Handled’ guidelines to ensure best possible conditions for the pigs.  Volpi Foods has coordinated with other Italian meat and sausage producers to ensure 100% utilization of the pig and in doing so made this program very successful and a benefit to their business.

Heritage Farms continuously strives for ethical and humane treatment for all of the foods they raise, transport and process.  Each step along the way is closely monitored starting from the farm where the animals are free to roam outdoors and feed a natural diet.  The processing facilities are closely observed to ensure the animals do not suffer at any point during the process and traceability for each and every step.

Volpi Foods does participate in a ‘hands-on’ monitoring of the farms and producers from which their pigs are raised and purchased.  A minimum of once per year random inspection takes place at each location to observe the step by step process and handling techniques of the pigs.

Today we begin to see that the American consumer is consciously aware of the impact being made on the planet and the importance of instuting change.  It has been only 4 years in the making, however it is type of determination and dedication that allows Volpi Foods to stand out amongst its peers.