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Artisan Tradition. |
There is no doubt that as a Chef this is my favorite time of the year to be cooking. Don’t get me wrong, cooking is a joy and something I look forward to each and every day. It’s just that during this time of year there is a chill in the morning air, the days are growing shorter and the style of my cooking changes to adapt to the bounty of new ingredients.
As with the changing color of the autumn leaves and landscape, our fruits and vegetables begin to take on the same hues.
Potatoes are autumn staples that seem to always bring a sense of comfort to the table and ones soul. You’ll find purple Peruvian, Yukon Gold, Fingerlings, Sweet Potatoes and Yams filling the bins at the local market. Of course the old standby Russet will always have its place in our pantry. Potatoes can be prepared many different ways, and they are especially delicious with Italian meats such as pancetta. Recently I have taken on a new fondness for sweet potatoes. One reason being the important nutritional attributes, they are high in protein, fiber and vitamin C. A favorite way to prepare these wonderful tubers would be ‘Sweet Potato Mashers’. Check out my recipe for Pork Loin Saltimbocca with Sweet Potato Mashers. This recipe is also featured in Volpi’s new cookbook, which will be released on November 1, 2009.
When it comes to fruits, nothing tells us it is autumn more than the explosion of apple varieties available at local markets. Names such as Honeycrisp, Winesap, Pink Lady and McIntosh to name just a few shout out to us each with their own color, flavor and culinary purpose. Other autumn fruits that should find their way into our recipes would be figs, persimmons, cranberries, table grapes, pears, pomegranates, almonds and pistachios. Many of these fruits pair nicely with Italian meats such as prosciutto. A favorite weekend snack that surely captures the simplicity and perfection of autumn flavors and ingredients would be ‘Bruschetta with Volpi Prosciutto, Figs and Pecorino Cheese.’
Hearty greens which are tolerable to the cooler temperatures are rich in flavor and nutrients. These greens are sturdy which allows them to stand up to the robust flavor profiles found in our autumn foods and cooking methods. Items we should be focusing our attention on would include: artichokes, kale, mustard greens, Brussels sprouts, chard, broccoli rabe and collards. A great side dish for the dinner table, ‘Oven Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Caramelized Volpini Prosciutto Bits.’
Winter squashes provide a cornucopia of colors, shapes, textures and flavors. Each has its own character as well as great diversity in the kitchen. Winter squashes do very well in a variety of cooking methods such as roasted, braised, sautéed or simply pureed. A quick autumn dish because of the easy preparation and simplicity in cooking, ‘Oven Roasted Acorn Squash with Crispy Volpi Pancetta’.
The style of cooking that begins with the onset of autumn really shines a light on “Root Vegetables”. Here we find parsnips, carrots, celeriac, beets, turnips and rutabagas to compliment our meals. Oven roasting root vegetables will allow for caramelization of the natural sugars which provide sweetness along with depth in flavor. Well worth the time and effort – Oven Roasted Beet Salad w/ Citrus Dressing.
I am excited about the change of seasons and look forward to next talking about cooking methods used in the kitchen during these crisp autumn days and nights.
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